The shirt collar , along the edge of the cuffs, the shirt is the most visible part, especially in winter when we are wearing sweaters or jackets. Therefore choosing the right collar is fundamental, in fact it will be on the collar that will focus the eyes of our party.
The first step will have the correct size shirt. Indossiamola and move his neck left and right. The collar tips should remain in place. Then put on his jacket lapel must adequately cover the bottom edge of the collar and the tips, at the nape neck to be in sight and never covered gown. Also once the collar is buttoned between this and the neck there must be a space that you can put your pinky finger.
The classic shirt collar must form a perfect triangle in which to put his tie. A big lump in Windsor requires for example collars medium-enlarged tips of the above kind “to the French.”
There are a number of types of encoded now collar and intended to resist any fashion.
Also called a straight-pointed (the Straight-Point Collar ) is ideal for formal and social occasions. The distance between the tips of the collar is variable. These collars partially covering his tie. In all types of collar it is important to calibrate the tips with the lapels of the jacket and with the width of the tie. The classical measures are: 9 cm wide lapels, tie max width of 8.5-9 cm long and the collar tips about 7 cm. Currently prevailing tendency to increase the size: 9.5-10 cm wide lapels, ties 10-10.5 cm and the collar tips 7.5-8 cm long.
Also called Cutaway Collar or open collar. A curious note: in France instead is called “Italian.” Has a very wide opening, with peaks that tend to “run away”, also said Windsor collar and made more famous by the Duke, who had conceived specifically for the wide and triangular knot at Windsor. In Italy it is also called Scappino from the name of the Piedmontese firm ties that he was a strong promoter. Suitable for those who want to dress formally, ideal for double-breasted ever for sports jackets or tweed suits.
button down collar
Collar with buttons
Also called Button-Down Collar. It was launched by the American house Brooks Brothers that was inspired by the British polo players pointed to such efforts to prevent the svolazzassero tips. It is a soft and casual model, used mainly by those who love the casual / sportswear. Ideal for tweed jackets, full of wool and for full-bodied tie knots.
Inglese collar spread to English opening
Collar to English opening
said also Inglese Spread Collar has a more open shape than the straight-point and form a triangle whose top has an opening angle of about 90 degrees. Made famous by the Duke of Kent , today they are advocates Prince Charles and his father the Duke of Edinburgh.
rounded collar or club collar
Collar rounded tips
Also called Rounded or Club Collar popularized by the style of dress of the British or American university students during the ’20s. Not recommended for those with round face and wide.
Also referred Diplomatic features tips bent outwards, suitable for very elegant occasions where the use of cuffs with closure twins is almost a must.
Also called Mao neck, consisting essentially only by the Roman collar; formerly used for robes and nightgowns, then shirts suit tuxedo and tails, but today for sports and casual linen shirts.
Also published on Medium.