In this series “Dressing well for September,” we will first talk about what we had trouble putting this summer and can easily dress up a Figure: blazers and sport jackets.
Then we’ll talk next week costumes.
The subject is vast, and it was quite difficult to organize well but I think I found a good compromise: the first section will be a guide blazer man with descriptions, advice and style selection.
Ditto for sports jacket. Finally, the series on the costumes (next week) will clarify your questions on fit (for it is a suit he must be vigilant, if anywhere) and substances.
Anyway, if you need to remember one thing in this guide blazer man , it is to stop confusing without blazer sports jacket and stop as we do (almost) everywhere.
(Remember, Bw-Yw had also made a guide blazer man more general, regard is also the sports jacket)
(Picture under Manolo Costa New York tailors)
I blazer man Guide: History and Characteristics
This is the favorite jacket of the British navy from the early 19th century. It quickly spread the authority of the British crown in 1837. She was in the navy era, with a double-breasted 6 × 2.
The single breasted blazer had against by not related to the British army and was used in the rowing clubs in England.
These models had only two buttons so that rowers can move normally without restrictions. This is one of the most versatile jackets you can find, but that should not be confused with sports jacket.
No hesitation: navy blue or nothing ( or so be a rebel who breaks the rules and take a clearer SLIGHTLY #wild ). If you take another color, then it becomes a sports jacket (and we do agree, it is not AT ALL the same thing).
Exceptions: traditionally, bottle green and red are also strangely tolerated.
By cons, blazers may exist in surprisingly ultra flashy stripes in a context of rowing clubs. The colors identify the club that owns its wearer. No comments for this particular style: needless to say I do not’ll include in the selection of this guide blazer man . There are also models (but again tasteless) with contrasting piping.
The buttons are traditionally cast iron and gold, but you can also opt for pearl buttons or slightly colored horn buttons. Avoid simply a little cheap plastic buttons.
In the US, wearing the blazer is still quite formal, and it is not shocking that some did either close to a suit jacket: with padding and a slightly long jacket
The European port, however, is more close to an Italian mentality and wearing a sports jacket more unstructured, with little padding and shorter. Some even come close many Neapolitan jackets: unlined and without padding.
The Crusaders blazers will often against a semi-canvas and with minimal padding on shoulders for a better grip.
In short, three different silhouettes there are:
– the European / Italian: fabric lighter and less structured blazer pockets.
– The Columbia: single breasted often 3 buttons (with reverse detent) or cross (with spikes in the rear) dual slots
– American: single-breasted two button, American shoulders, notched lapels, flap pockets, single slot.
You will clearly see the difference in the examples of part Style Tips .
5 The fabrics used
A blazer is not a suit jacket: less formal and the tissue is valuable and better. The role of the matter is rather to differentiate sports jackets and suit jackets. Here are the three subjects preferred.
Wool -Serge: the finishes are cleaner, there is a basic fabrics used on the uniforms of the army. By looking well, we see that the pattern is broken down into small diagonal ribs.
guide-blazer-man serge material
The wool twill fabric is a durable, resistant and smooth at once. It will become a little brighter as and when it wears. She dropped a rather clean and easy editing.
– Kashmir: a blazer 100% cashmere is a great basic to combine with chinos. If the material is soft and luxurious, it is especially fragile and will inevitably be less durable than a big, rough tweed.
cashmere blazer guide-man
– Flannel : one of the most harsh forms of wool, we talk more about in the article on sports jackets, but allows especially pretty speckled effect
flannel material guide-blazer-man
– Rustic canvas: a caviar texture, with a nice identity, similar to the honeycomb on sweaters
guide blazer man matter-hopsack rustic canvas
– Fresco : a rarer material, created from several wool and son with a plain weave. This is a summer fabric and a more expensive alternative
6 Types of blazer
Two buttons: the most common type and probably the most versatile, especially in navy
Three buttons: it gently back and is perfect for large, who can wear it with pants in a completely different color to break the verticality of their silhouette.
Crusader six buttons: much more formal, and usually with welt pockets (remember: this is more minimalist, it is more formal)
Of these three types of blazer, one will find mostly pikes setbacks on other types of jackets. (Especially on the cross on which notched lapels are banned altogether)
7 Although differentiate a blazer with a navy suit jacket
Some tips to avoid confusing blazer and suit jacket:
– Avoid too structured models and with too much padding: A blazer is casual and does not necessarily need to have impeccable lines (even the British style has no shoulders so marked that)
– No mismatched suit jackets: it depends on the model but most of them sonnt more structured and long. In the case of a blazer, jacket does not have to cover your butt.
– Avoid worsted: the rendering is too smooth and precious materials and prefer more assertive weaves such as linen, tweed, cotton or washed cotton
Prefer casual shoes: chelsea or chukkas are perfect, if not take a little minimalist sneakers as Axel Arigato or Common Project.
II Although wear a blazer man Advice style
The blazer has a sacred context preppy / ivy league, which is a somewhat limited final in style. I suddenly tried to diversify the maximum.
1 Guide blazer man to follow the styles
blazer man Boglioli guide
We have here a blazer Boglioli: typically Italian style with patch pockets, Neapolitan shoulders and cotton with a slight worn effect. Wooden buttons go perfectly with this material that has some character (the cast buttons were too precious).
blazer man crosses guide
A more British style with a button 6 × 2: we see immediately that the vest is more structured with padding and a cigarette in the shoulder. Holding follows a more formal and less summer logic with flannel trousers in dark gray wool, brogue and tie.
guide blazer glove man rugger
The American style by Gant Rugger: one directly sees the US natural shoulders, but also striped shirt with light and thick stripes well recall the preppy style / Ivy League. Everything is confirmed by chukkas. This is a place from lookbook Spring / Summer and everything is associated with a pretty cream-colored chinos.
guide blazer man style2
A more serious outfit, apparently a Korean / Japanese / Hong Kong (if I may judge the writing behind): it could be a fourth blazer.Les lapel wearing style are ultra well-proportioned, and holding the ball is almost . This style of southeast Asia tend toward the preppy revival, but with proportions adapted to local: everything is more slim and fitted, but without falling into through Kooples. It is a perfect combination for me.
blazer clean man guide
Last ultra-successful outfit I’ve chosen for the very particular shade of chinos for the perfectly cut blazer with long lapel that lengthen the silhouette well. Also note the wonderful reminder between the gleaming dual loop (which are battery in the proper register in such attire, dressed but slightly casual) and the tie.
2 The facts
A cross blazer is either a fairly strong piece: I do not recommend to wear it tempting overlay below. The bright color of the cardigan also gives an update cheap enough for all, and that’s a shame because the rest is pretty good.
blazer man fail guide
a little all records are mixed here: here we have a real good sailor blazer with brass buttons, and he rather well with the tie (preppy register). As against this striped shirt with contrasting white collar rather holds the formal and financial world and has for once nothing to do there.
blazer man fail2 guide
This outfit mixing everything, and it shows nothing but the blazer. A cross blazer is more British-inspired and will therefore be more consistent if it is well structured and with beautiful flap pockets, more formal than those pockets.
We agree , this is not rocket science and it can be considered that this is an Italian reinterpretation of the British crossed blazer.
As against the rest of the outfit is too loaded and going in all directions: not only with cargo pants, but also with the casual bow tie and padded vest that fits in this picture frankly my blazer with a cross. (A quilted vest goes better with a two-button jacket).
Also published on Medium.