Shirt. The base of the locker room for men, the emblem of the elegance of a man, pillar of masculine style. Beyond the drama, a truth every man now MUST have a shirt. Casual and relaxed, perhaps, dressed, formal, mandatory.

And as usual, quality, yet quality, always quality, inherent characteristic of beautiful things.

But as usual, no totalitarianism: these indications are not exhaustive. Because even if you have not cross stitched plastic buttons, do not forget that a well executed cut and a beautiful material remain the two most important elements.

Summary record
A little technique to recognize a nice shirt,
The different types of tissue,
The making of a good shirt,
The back of the shirt: matter of taste,
A rigid and net collar,
The cuffs of the shirt,
reinforcement of the swallows,
Pretty buttons of natural,
Sections,
Brief summary on how choose his shirt,
Selecting shirt brands we love.
A little technique to recognize a nice shirt
The quality of the material is ultra determinant of your choice.

The shirt, in direct contact with the skin and, sometimes for several hours, must be cut in a beautiful fabric, which excludes synthetic (excluding special textures).

A 100% cotton, and that’s it. To this, of course, can optionally be added silk and linen. As long as you stay in a 100% natural material, so good!

Titration of a shirt fabric
The fabric ID is the titration (or “English cotton number”) and his devious: 100/2, 120/1, 80/2, etc. This is a technical information to know.

But do not fall into the overthink. Do not angoissez if you do not know the titration of the tissue, and avoid at all costs reflections like “hmmmm … because this fabric has a thread count of 161 x 53 and the other has an account over 152 x 46, which is best? “.

This is the best way to choose your very coldly shirt and tasteless, while for a garment you’ll wear next to the skin, your feeling is what counts the most.

A fabric has a thread count with 20 son more about the plot, frankly – and pardon the expression – it is completely not care, except if you have ten bespoke shirts and that’s your passion.

charvet bespoke shirt shop
Charvet is the best address for lovers of bespoke shirts

This famous titration in fact corresponds to the length of a wire for a given fixed weight. For a shirt, this is the number of coils (each coil having a length of 840 yards is 768,1m) for a pound (453,6g).

For example, a fabric titled 160s means to 453.6 g wire, I wire a total length of 122,896 meters. More titration, the higher the thread is fine.

But beware ! The highest titers (from 170s or 180s, 300s up if you are willing to pay 400 euros a shirt) are certainly very sweet, but crease easily and may be more fragile. Remember that high titer = not necessarily guarantee of solidity (but token of softness and high end).

Twisted and double-plied
The devious simply to “tweak” two (or more) son together just to form one.

You may have heard of the “two-ply”: two single son that twisted together to get a single wire, to bring more strength and silky.

When you see such a 100/2 tissue, it means that this is a titration fabric 100 (thus completely in conventional assays in ready-to-wear) double twisted (the “2”).

As demonstrated Laurent Milanese Special Selection, it can go very high, with the most luxurious fabrics in 330/4 as in Belisario example! Above, it’s the sun…

Shirt-man-horrible
Unlike the quad twisted fabric, quadruple shirt button is not a sign of quality …

A true two-ply is a chain and weft. That is to say that the vertical and horizontal son of the fabric are double twisted. Except for 99.999% of the time, unfortunately, for the consumer, it’s impossible to know.

We have a lot of questions about this, but ultimately, it will really change much on the final rendering.

loom

Albini and Thomas Mason, two giants that provide many brands, are safe bets, do not forget.

Different types of tissues
Pima cottons, Giza, Sea Island …
Among the types of high-quality cotton, there Pima cotton, cotton Giza (Egypt) and Sea Island. If you see the “LIVE” label (Extra Long Staples), it means “extra long staple” of quality. Finally, for the record, the silkier the shirt fabric I have touched are those of David & John Anderson, with a “hand” incredible, almost supernatural. It almost sounds like silk.

Poplin
cotton poplin

Poplin is an easy material to weave, light and thin as desired and ideal for everyday wear.

often used poplin for professional use. And she is easy to maintain!

We recognize quality poplin silky, simply. Over his touch makes you think of silk, and you are on a qualitative matter.

To acquire a good experience at the hand of a fabric, it is no secret: go to the most upmarket shops in your area (where those folders easily exceed 150 €) and touch materials again and again. I repeat for several years.

The wire to wire
wire to wire

If you like poplin, then you will like the wire to wire, derived from the first.

The difference is in the color level, because this tissue requires at least 2 colors son in order to create texture. What give relief too simple outfit.

The oxford
oxford cloth

The oxford is suitable for less formal use.

Its thick weave gives it an interesting checkerboard texture, in addition to guaranteeing an appreciable robustness. But its uniqueness lies elsewhere: it is made with 2 son of colored string and son two white frame, resulting in a little two-tone appearance.

The beautiful oxford can even be worn with a suit (range of Royal Oxford at Thomas Mason for example).
Howard’s on this shirt called “pin collar”, the fabric is a Royal Oxford that fits perfectly in a formal dress (shirt, Howard’s costume BonneGueule).

twill
twill

Those of you angry with ironing will love the twill, the easier to pass the iron. We recognize the its stripes through (like jeans), the result of a process of shifting the weft and warp thread.

Hence a strong and dense wire. It is a fabric that is often seen in formal shirts.

The denim shirt
house standards denim shirt
Denim Shirt House Standards

This is now a classic of the male wardrobe.

With a typical thickness and matte texture, denim adapts better and better adjusted to the cuts or even sprung for an elegant and masculine twist.

Denim Shirt Pitti (Trashness)
One can use the raw material of denim to contrast with the very stylish outfits like the fact that transalpine friendly.

Note that Italians love to wear very light denim fabric (the same weight as a traditional shirt), tie and suit. It gives very nice outfit!

Other tissues
The so-called tissue “shirt weight” is a rich and varied universe.

Include the chambray, pine point, the dobby, the honeycomb quilting, flannel or even the jersey. So many textures that should be explored once you already wear oxford or poplin.

Our chambray shirt to us.
Our chambray shirt to us.

The making of a good shirt
The general appearance of the seams
Simply, it is important to feel good about the shirt, and not to note flaws as:

one larger than the other pan,
a twisted armhole,
folds that are emerging due to realized through sewing …
I enlarged the line, but it can happen to come across such cases.

Two explanations: a mounting error or a shirt that is not suited to your body.

Regularity and precision sewing
If it is not to exclude some small imperfections (sometimes witness a handmade work), quality clothing will be noted for accuracy, clarity and regularity of its seams.

Easy to inspect on a shirt, the stitches must accompany the play of curves, straight on a button placket, and rounded on a beautiful club pass.

sewing items
The stitching follows perfectly and regularly rounded neck. In terms of density was between 6 and 7 dots per centimeter.

Finesse stitches
Much on certain items like jeans it might be interesting to have good thick seams, as much on a shirt, more preferred fine and close points.

Most elegant and enabling accurate and robust mounting of the fabric, the finer points will improve the rendering of a shirt. From 5/6 points cm, it has quality. 7 points / cm, this is the top.

2 stitching needles or French seams?
If we go into detail, there are two main types of seams: double needle stitching and sewing the English.

English double-needle stitching
© Hast

Twin-needle stitching

The first is to cross two needles simultaneously from one side of the fabric laminated on each other, so we have 2 parallel lines of points.

Basic and effective, this type of sewing industrial and remains very much less noble than the English seam.

English seam

English seam leaves only one seam line.

The inserts are entangled in one another instead of being clad. More complex, more elegant but also more solid, this type of assembly is clearly the best!

Please many purists.

English seam
Beautiful example of fine English tailoring. Can be distinguished at a seam line, the second being invisible. In passing, note the work of silk, woven so as to create a false relief … And very wearable and more!

Armholes of the shirt
The armhole is a crucial element of a shirt, both in terms of comfort and aesthetics.

If the shirt is chosen the right size, the armhole seam is superimposed on the natural break your shoulder.

armhole shoulder shirt
A nice line on the shoulder bone

In the armpit, we often hear that the joint must be perfect and form a cross. This is true in most cases … in ready to wear.

However, the panacea of upscale armhole has a staggered fashion!

The famous shifted armhole.
The famous shifted armhole.

so we’ll see the joins are missing one or two centimeters. Why ? Simply in order to facilitate the movement of arms and prevent creasing when you move.

Do not expect a radical change in the comfort … Very clever is the one who can make the difference without looking at the seams. But it’s still a nice detail, only available on the high end (over 200 € the shirt apart at Husbands).

The back of the shirt: matter of taste
There are different ways to work the back of a shirt, according to the style and above all the use we want to make. Some details provide greater comfort during wear and movements, however they are a little less aesthetic and you complicate ironing.

Others like the clamps come bending the shirt in the kidneys and marry the arch of the back, which is not possible when you have a bend on the sides … But the seam lines in the back are not necessarily to the taste of everyone!

standard back home
The cut of the shirt in oxford House Standard.

I advise you to be particularly vigilant on the realization of folds and tongs: the smallest defect as a poorly folded fabric and sewn or irregular clip will be immediately.

shirt back
© Swann & Oscar

 

A stiff neck and net
The neck sign the shirt gives it its tone, its elegance, nobility: the neck is sacred!

Syndrome soft collar
This is the element of a shirt first saw it really should be impeccable, sewn with regularity.

Be choosy about its rigidity because it is out of the question to accept a molasson neck on a formal shirt that will fold as soon as you turn your head.

So unless you are in the presence of the sometimes casual shirts looser collar, make sure you have a perfect fit and a consistent thickness.

metal reinforcements whales (often sewn into the neck) or plastic (removable) will, ideally, maintain net down collar.

A beautiful semi-cutaway collar as proposed Hast.
A beautiful semi-cutaway collar as proposed Hast.

Cervical Editing: thermocollé / floating collar
Thermally often contrasted collar and floating passes.

While it is true that a canvas collar is more noble, there are now excellent Thermally sentatives the advantage of ironing much easier.

Little tip for recognizing, slide your finger along the neck from the inside towards the tips: if a small tissue folds form, you are on a floating collar.

At the base of the neck, the band consists of 3 layers of fabric provides essential maintains the collar around the neck.
At the base of the neck, the band consists of 3 layers of fabric provides essential maintains the collar around the neck.

At the base of the neck, in contact with your neck part is conveniently an interlining, or 3 panels superimposed tissue. Keeps bringing robustness and neck, the interlining will be either woven or heat-sealed, although the latter option is the most common and satisfactory in terms of quality.

However, a low-end adhesive interlining give the card an unpleasant aspect, and may blister fabric. It is desirable to keep in mind that the base of the neck, although it is thick, must not be rigid.

The vast majority of shirts have collars Thermally very satisfactory (really). Passes with a free interlining are quite expensive and exist only on shirts at € 250.

If the record, maintenance and longevity are incomparable, they ask a technique slightly different ironing is what gives it its charm 🙂 You may notice a very slight drape species that gives a touch more natural, hard to explain at col. In short, this is a very detailed “Pitti”!

It is also a collar that raises many questions, like Foot in Cape Town. Note also, as Hugo PG suggests, purists love but novices interpret this as a fault.

The cuffs of the shirt
It really is possible to make a personal detail to the shape you choose, not to mention common fine embroidery initials.

But we will discuss these retail style later!

If it can stand on its own, is that in terms of rigidity it is!
If it can stand on its own, is that in terms of rigidity it is!

A good headline will be sufficiently rigid to maintain a beautiful round around the wrist, with seams again very fine and regular.

The passing of the button will be finely stitched, and there will certainly no son beyond in every way.

In the wrist, you probably find the famous Capuchin leg (which opens for better ironing the shirt), and again we want the edges of the finer points, regular, aligned, and if possible a reinforcement at the end.

On the high end, sometimes there are travettos the Capuchins, these little reinforcements that can not be made solely by hand. In ready-to-wear in France, to my knowledge, only Husbands and Howard’s offer shirts in small series with that detail.
That is what a beautiful travetto!

The reinforcing swallows
Sometimes forgotten because hidden inside of the pants: the bottom of shirt.

Whether a low rounded bottom (rounded down), or just right split, do not overlook the quality of the cut and seams mentioned above.

Not to mention, especially for low liquette, the indispensable swallow: that little fabric stiffener, often tonal, just protect the joint of the back and side panels, avoiding the port-related tears.

This is especially important in the case of a shirt you wear without going into the pants, and would be adjusted: as soon as you sit down, all the tension of the movement is transferred to this fragile area.

shirt backing swallow

Pretty buttons made of natural materials
The best shirts brands use of mother of pearl.

And if the place in question on his lips button to see if it is cold is not necessarily elegant, find a corner to do it discreetly, because it is an effective test to recognize the real pearl.

artist buttons office
Pearl sewn cross.

As nacre, there is the Mother Pearl (the Roll’s), the Shell River and trochus. This kind of information is not really available to the consumer base, but note that as the pearl button is thicker, the reflection is white, and you are on the high end pearl.

But I remember that beautiful buttons plastic, that’s fine too, is less brittle, and it avoids paying a fortune this shirt!

Regarding the type of sewn, it is true that the cross stitched buttons or crow’s feet are stronger than sewn in parallel.

However, as always, if a seam (of all types) seems sturdy and made with a solid wire, no need to ask more questions.

Mother of Pearl Shirt Button Nacre
The most high-end pearl that can exist throughout the galaxy

sleeve fancy liners?
Why not ! Some patterns or colors within the cuff give relief when retrousserez sleeves.

But as always, it is ensured that the liners are well stitched. It happens that some linings are slightly longer or cut differently than outside, which may cause unsightly wrinkles.

The aesthetic elements of the men’s shirt
The different styles of cups
Basically, there are 3 major cuts.

The fitted cut
We know that women are receptive to a well drawn masculine build.

The fitted cut is precisely the one that will value the more the shoulders and torso in the mind of a V.

To do this, we will “dig” the sides and limit the amplitude of the armhole: well cut, the liner reduces the volume of the chest to accentuate the shoulders.

Obviously, this kind of cut absolutely unforgiving side of love handles!

fitted shirt

However, careful not to fall into too much: it is not necessarily elegant nor comfortable being cast in his shirt … all we have already seen these buttons in great distress ready to explode. So if it can be very rewarding to emphasize the masculine curves of the bust, especially careful not to choose too tight fitted shirt, and too small.

They are not recommended for strong men, or too thin: bending accentuate unsightly volumes as torsos thin. And we all know how it can be risky to wear a poplin shirt too close to the body in the summer for example …

Once there is great folds in a star around the buttons, and the folder opens a little on the torso is that the shirt is too small!

Adjusted cuts
shirt bob carpenter man
The slim fit shape the bust and enhances shoulders, while still more comfortable and more suited to the movement.

This is the cup that we recommend.

Which can benefit a large number of morphology, it is also more comfortable than the curved but more elegant than the right.

Its cut slightly closer flanks without going to press them and thus here also helps increase the value shoulders.

Adjusted cut also has the advantage of not hindering the movement and let circulate some air between the skin and the fabric, which is especially valuable during hot temperatures, stress, or just at a party!

Straight cut
shirt right

The shirt right had beautiful days in the 80/90 years periods when fashion (it still existed at that time) was the beautiful part in the monstrous volumes whether suits, jeans or shirts.

But today, it seems completely outdated. Little benefit to anyone, it often created a flutter around the torso far from elegant …

One can however find it as strong piece or in a vintage spirit, or in some streetwear designers or lovers exaggerated volumes.

It is not banned for those who really know how to wear it.

The different collar styles
shirt collar
© Swann and Oscar

More than any detail, the neck of a DNA brand shirt, character. Staying in a formal register does not prevent to opt for a slightly more original neck than the classic eternal …

Personally, I love the club neck (or dandy collar or round neck, but not Peter Pan collar as is often seen) to its original form really, very well highlighted by a tie at that.

But the inverted neck in strict remaining, also gives the shirt a remarkable sophistication.

shirt collar 2
© Swann and Oscar

Benedict loves cutaway collars. They have a sacred great with or without a tie, collar like Lucknow, Lucknow reversed or officers collar that you can not wear with a tie. They are relaxed and worked at a time.

The different styles of wrist / headlines
Indulge yourself at this level, it would be really hard to do too! Between broken wrist, square, round transformable etc, the choice is vast:

 

shirt cuffs
© Swann & Oscar

Brief summary on how choose his shirt
You will understand, buy a shirt seems simple, but buy one that suits you really harder.

Also, do not agonize over his head on the fineness of the yarn, the type of wrist or weft … Trust your feeling when trying:

Does the shirt fit me well (taped shoulder / volumes adapted)?
Do I find it comfortable?
Do I like the material?
This really is essential. Other parameters are secondary.

Of course, study the making of a garment can recognize quality where it is, but buy clothes also involves imagination.

It’s over time that we manage to see what makes the “personality” of a shirt around the neck, fabric, cutting, etc.

Gradually, you will discover that some details will please you more than others and thus emerges its own sartorial sensibility.

Selecting shirt brands that we like:
Note: This list is obviously not exhaustive, it is subjective and reflects personal taste, do not forget! Please post your favorite brands comment.

Hast: Hast The shirts have the best value in at entry level. For € 54, you have a shirt collar to well defined in a variety of patterns and colors.
House Standards: In the same vein as the previous mark, House Standards offers shirts in oxford well cut.
Suitsupply: very competitive on shirts, they have a range to 59 €, 79 € a range and a range to 99 €. Like Hast, quality / price is good if you like Italian style.
Boggi: For those who want to try the Italian style for less. Boggi is well known for his flared shirt collars showing the tie.
Office Artist: Young French brand, Artist Office positions on formal shirts at less than € 100, including a sewing 7 points per centimeter.
Hartford: French brand 30 years, Hartford offers a range of impressive casual shirts and totally underestimated, with many Japanese materials, Italian or English. Sammy take the cup!
Black Flag: The brand has made its casual shirt piece headlight. An excellent price / quality ratio on parts unfortunately sold out too quickly.
Norse Projects: In the same universe as Black Flag, this brand offers many comfortable but casual cut shirts.
Abbie & Rose: Well-cut casual shirts, collars falling well and a selection of interesting materials. Count on average 80 euros for a shirt.
Howard’s: After the tie, Fred has completely revamped its line of shirts with his usual desire to bring something new in relation to what is happening on the market. Also a very good price / quality ratio for the formal shirt!
MELINDAGLOSS: high-end brand that offers a lot of creativity in the shirts. A real address to consider for those who want something other than blue or white!
Marchand Drapier: Benoit Carpentier, creative eternal, made of shirt one of its key pieces, with many variations in the neck and in the grounds. Unquestionably, this is one that offers the most creative shirts.
And to dream a little … Here are some brands of high-end shirt, for those who want the top finishes, and have a shirt and say they would not have been much better.

Courtot: It goes upmarket to venture into the world of bespoke. Count 250 € for sample traditional shirt design.
Swann & Oscar: custom shirt brand with two lines. The first prices between 120 and 130 euros, and the other between 180 and 220 euros. Note that this range called “sartoriale” offers very nice finishes by hand.
Husbands: Brand discreet, yet it offers one of the best quality / price ratio in France on the high-end shirt, with a perfect cut. Count € 180 for a shirt that would be double anywhere else.
100 hands: a high end brand shirt BWYW that our colleagues have cleared well.
Kalgati: Attention, you leave the utility vision of the shirt like “it takes one to work me”, to enter the field of handicrafts. If you too are looking for the perfect white shirt, you’ve come to the right place. Read the excellent article of Parisian gentleman about it and that of Very Good Lord. For those who want the best of the best.
G.Inglese: Unable to enter an item on the shirt not to mention G. Inglese and his legendary polo shirt. This is real big shirt making, with the shoulders folded by hand, buttonholes by hand, etc. My polo shirt is also one of the best cut clothes I have.
The shirt selection of our colleagues Zampa Di Gallina: Reasonable prices for shirts with 8 operations handmade. A good quality / price ratio for those who want to taste the Italian confection!


Also published on Medium.